Photo: Jill Clardy
However, there is a lot of planning and a few important decisions that need to be made before you can get started. This is the first post in a series that will take you through the planning and development stages of a raised planter bed. Hopefully, this series will provide you with the resources you need to build your very own raised planter bed.

Ok, so where do we start?

Well, the first step is to decide on the construction material for the outside framework.

Here are the options:

Construction materials:

Wood: There are a ton of different options available for wood. Railroad ties, landscape timber, dimensional lumber. But, you have to be careful about treated woods. Chromated copper arsenate (known as CCA) can be common in wood, especially wood that is designed to be rot-resistant. However, studies have found that the arsenic can leech into the soil. I would avoid them completely.

Railroad ties are not recommended for edibles. They are treated with creosote, which is probably not as harmfull as CCA, but nevertheless has chemical properties that can leech into the soil. However, many building centers, and garden stores, sell “Landscaping Timbers” – which are the same thing – except they weren’t recycled railroad ties (no chemical treatment), and they are safe for garden use.

Landscape Timber

Photo: joated

Cedar, or other natural rot-resistant, hard woods are a good option. Cedar looks great (and smells great) and lasts longer than many other wood products.  Just make sure it has not been treated with CCA or anything else!

Overall, wood can be an attractive and affordable option. However, depending on climates and watering schedules, wood can start to break down within 3 years. Reconstructing can be a major undertaking once your veggies are well established.
Concrete – Cinder blocks: Cinder blocks are more expensive and not as attractive as wood, especially if your planter box is large, but they do have many advantages. They are a semi-permanent option. You do not have to worry about future rot or break-down. In addition, the centers make perfect pots for strawberries, or other small plants, to surround the garden.  You can also rub mud or other organic material on to the outside of the block, in order to blend it more with the surroundings or to give it a more natural look.

Cinder blocks

Photo: TopTechWriter.us
Rock or natural stone (limestone or other): Something that might be more attractive than cinder blocks would be rumbled limestone wallstone, available at the big box home centers. They are typically available in sections that are 4×8x16 inches. However, this is definitely a more expensive option. However, you are paying for aesthetics.

Check out Freecycle.org. You might be able to obtain your building materials for free!

Size:

Size will probably be most determined by the amount of space you have available in your yard. However, if you have some flexibility on size, or are wondering how much space you will need, then this is an important decision. I have read from many other successful home gardeners to go big… go big and go wide. Make it big enough that you can walk between the rows, so that you don’t need to reach in from the sides. There is a lot of value to this in that you would not always have to get on your hands and knees to reach in, which could result in more consistent interaction and more successful harvests. Being able to walk on it, you could stand over the row and just bend down to pick a weed or that one early ripe veggie without messing up your clothes….

If you have the luxury of space, go big.

If you don’t have that much space to allocate. Think about what types of plants you want to grow and how much space will they need. Make sure you can access all sides of the box as easily as possible.

In terms of depth, six inches is a good start, and many vegetables grow well in a bed that is six inches deep. As with many things, though, if you can do more, more is better! Ten to twelve inches would be ideal.

Location:

If you know that you’ll be growing vegetables or herbs, or sun-loving flowers in your new garden, select a site that gets at least eight hours of sun per day. Conversely, if you only have a shady area available, make sure to plan which fruits and vegetables would work best in that environment. A flat, level area is important, and you should also make sure that the area has easy access to water sources as well as room for you to work.
That’s it for the first part. Check back soon for the second part, where will walk through the building of the planter bed itself. Go purchase your materials and prepare your yard for construction of your new raised planter bed!

Photo: swainboat

Photo: Meredith_James

But first, an overview on why the commercial options should be avoided:

The number one selling herbicide, or weed-killer, is Roundup. Roundup is produced by the U.S. company Monsanto and contains the active ingredient glyphosate. In the US, 5-8 million pounds are used every year on lawns and yards and 85-90 million pounds are used annually in US agriculture. Glyphosate kills plants by interfering with the synthesis of the amino acids phenylalanine, tyrosine and tryptophan.  Glyphosate has been in the legal and environmental spotlight since it was first introduced, with reports going back and forth between environmental groups and government groups claiming it is safe. Currently, the U.S. EPA classifies glyphosate as relatively safe when exposed to small amounts. However, researchers suggested glyphosate exposure possibly increases the risk for developing some types of cancer, but definitive conclusions could not be attained due to small sample sizes and confounding factors. The bottom line is, there is a lot of money that is being made by large corporations like Monsanto from Roundup sales. They would lose tremendous amounts of money, if it were proven that Roundup was unsafe or if it was banned from use. Simply stated, why take the risk of possible toxic exposure from these synthetic chemicals, when you can use nature’s time-tested systems to reduce unnecessary weed growth and unwanted pests.

Green Alternatives Learned From a Long-Time Backyard Gardener:

1. The best alternative to synthetic pest and weed chemicals is good compost. If the garden has rich soil with recycled organic matter the plants can resist disease and insects better.
2. Copper collars (snail bar copper barriers) work great to keep snails from eating young plants without using snailbait. Copper collars create an electrolytic effect that repels them when they touch it. A reaction between their slimy secretion and the copper causes the shock. No electricity is required. Encircle these strips around trees or put as a barrier around garden beds.
3. Tanglefoot barriers work well to keep ants and aphids out of fruit trees. Soap can also be used as an effective all-purpose pesticide, just make sure it is a natural soap and not a detergent.
4. Try not to kill spiders, even in your house. Spiders are voracious insect eaters. Part of having a healthy garden without pesticides, means that the “good” bugs and lizards etc.. will take up residence and keep the “bad” bugs down. That can be hard sometimes to appreciate, but it is nature’s systems working. However, Buying beneficial insects doesn’t work, they usually fly away.
5. A whole other area that is valuable is companion planting, and another is planting some crops just because they attract beneficial insects, and birds. (Follow-up post on this soon!)

Photo: Anderson Mancini

Where to purchase and learn more about great organic garden supplies and seeds:

1. Peaceful Valley Farm, Grass Valley, CA.
2. Seeds of Change, Santa Fe, NM.

Great books to read:

1. Natural Insect and Disease control – It has lots of pictures of pests and beneficial insects; it helps a lot to know who is an enemy and who is your friend in the garden
2. John Jeavons – How to Grow More Vegetables…
   “Possibly the most detailed explanation of the Intensive gardening method available.”

Most of the popular cleaning products you can buy off the shelf have refreshingly simple ingredient lists. Which made me think…I can probably save a few dollars and make them at home. Well, sure enough, I did some experimenting and found some great recipes:

All-Purpose Cleaner:

2 cups water
4 tbls white vinegar
2 tsp of borax
1/4 cup dish soap
1 tsp tea tree oil (optional)
1 tbls lemon juice

To unclog drains:

Pour baking soda over drain, add lemon juice and slowly pour hot water down drain to get the bubbly mixture further down the pipe.

To clean wood floors:

Use 1/4 cup of olive oil
and 1/2 cup of vinegar

Use an old water bottle to mix the ingredients. Shake well and squirt on a rag and wipe the floor. A bit of buffing later, and you have a clean and shiny wood floor. Increase amounts of olive oil and vinegar accordingly to make enough for your floor area.

Natural Carpet Cleaner:

Natural Carpet Cleaner Recipe

6 qts HOT HOT water
4 teaspoons Dr. Bronner’s castille soap
1-2 cups white vinegar
25-30 drops of lavender essential oil
30-50 drops GSE (grape seed extract)

This will clean carpets and make them smell wonderful too!

Natural Glass cleaner:

1/2 part vinegar and 1/2 water.
Clean kitchen sink faucets: (and not just the place where the water comes out, but the whole area)

Lay a cloth around the bottom of it all and wet it with vinegar. It will soften and remove all
that gunk buildup.

That’s my list. What recipes have you tried?
—–

Thanks to the folks over at Treehugger forums for their help!

If you want to sell your gently used items:

• Garage Sale – these can be fun, but are a ton of work.  Here is a great site to check out if you are interested in hosting your own sale. 
• Craigslist.org - I’ve been using Craigslist.org for years and love it.  It is free to post items, and then you can arrange for a meet up to exchange the goods for $$.  There is also a section if you wish to get rid of your stuff for free.

If you want your stuff gone, and don’t care about cash:

• Freecycle.org  When we moved cross country we obtained our moving boxes from freecycle.org and then gave them away to be reused one more time once we arrived to our destination.  We saved tons of money and the homeowners had the advantage of instant pick up, and knowing their stuff went to a good use. 
• Donate to Goodwill, Salvation Army, etc. I love knowing that items that I once loved are going to local families that can put it to good use.  Keep it local and give your stuff to the charity of your choosing. 

Weird stuff that is only worth recycling:

• Earth911.com – Just fill in what you want to recycle, your zip code, and wiz bang you can dispose of batteries, paint, electronics, etc properly and have the peace of mind that it is out of your house. 

By reducing our consumption of ‘things’, we will reduce our draw on energy and water, and keep stuff that could be repurposed, or recycled out of landfills.

Q: 25 years ago, people were driving El Caminos and had just started to think about recycling! What was it that inspired you to start a career in sustainability consulting?

Michael Laurie: Haha. Yes, I don’t think many people have been thinking about sustainability for more than 5 years. I was inspired when I read Walden and some of the environmental books that came out around the first Earth Day in 1970. I just knew that it was something I wanted to be involved in.

Q: What are you currently working on?

ML: I am currently carrying out commercial and industrial water audits in Bellingham, commercial irrigation audits around Puget Sound, and performing individual energy audits for home owners. I am also teaching in a program that trains people in sustainable building. Some of the topics include: rainwater collection system designs, and integrated water conservation systems. So, yes, I stay very busy!

Q: What do you think is the number one easiest water conservation measure people are overlooking?

ML: I think this depends on the home. However, leaks are probably the easiest to fix and yet the most overlooked problem. Look at your water meter, if it is spinning and all of your appliances are turned off, you probably have a leak. Outside, I think most people over-water their landscape.

Q: If you could get every household in America to implement one thing to save water or energy what would it be?  What do you think is deterring them from already doing it?

ML: Actually, can I break the rules here and offer two things? I think the first thing I would recommend is to replace your old toilet with a good quality high-efficiency toilet. I want to emphasize good quality. If you buy a high-efficiency toilet, but you have to flush it multiple times, it defeats the purpose. However, the new high quality low-flow toilets work very well.

My second suggestion is to seal up the air leakage in your home. The first important step is to find where the leaks are. You probably have to hire someone to perform a blower door test, which can be kind of expensive. However, the repair is very low in cost and easy to do. The cost of energy lost to air leaks can be tremendous, especially if you live in a particularly hot or cold climate.

I think in both of these cases, the initial cost is what is holding people up. I don’t think people look at energy or water conservation in a smart economic way. Often times, people expect a fast or relatively high payback or return on their investment. Why should you set an expectation that is so much higher than your other investments? For example, if you invested in the stock market and received a 15% return, you would probably be pretty happy. However, it is common for people to expect a much faster or greater return on the investments they make in conservation related technologies. Why not set your expectation to at least equal to your other investments. Further, why not even set it lower than that, like maybe 10%, due to all of the other benefits conservation brings to our environment.

Q: What do you see as the next big thing in water conservation for the home owner?

ML: I think the big next push will be a cumulative approach combining water and energy conservation. This connection has always existed, but we are just starting to realize its importance. If you put in an energy efficient washing machine, you can easily see how you save energy and water. However, this connection applies to all other water saving devices due to the energy required to purify, transport, and pump the water in your home! Depending on the efficiency of the energy used, saving water also probably means pulling carbon dioxide out of the air as well.

Modern Day DIY systems:

Plastic barrel (typically 50 gallons).

Photo: The Flying Paquets

Plastic round rain barrels are probably the most common type of rain barrel on the market. They are relatively cheap ($70-200) and are durable and weather-proof. However, they can be fairly ugly and hard to hide. If designed for rain catchment, then it will be installed with a spout at the bottom to connect a hose to. A spout at the bottom, where you can connect a hose, helps make getting the water out much easier.

Photo:  jessycat_techie

To save even more money, you could purchase and adapt a standard plastic trash can, which typically has a capacity of 32-44 gallons. However, you have to adapt a hose connection to the bottom of the trash can, if you want to connect a hose. Be careful when using trash cans if watering any edible fruits or vegetables. The plastic that trash cans are made from are not food grade, meaning that the plastic can leech into the water it is storing.

Oak Barrels

Photo: Blue Cinderella

Oak rain barrels are a more natural alternative to plastic barrels and also look cool. This company sells retrofitted oak barrels that were once used to distill bourbon in Kentucky. Oak barrels are very heavy, and could be very expensive to ship if you can’t buy them locally.

Modular

Rainwater HOG

Photo: mywaterfuture

This modular rain barrel holds 50 gallons of water and is designed to fit where other rain barrels can’t. You can install this system close to your house, beneath the ground or deck, or it can be built into the frame-rails of your walls! You can also easily connect these units together to increase your total water storage. You can buy this type of barrel here.

Setting up a rain barrel is really easy. You simply divert some or all of the water flow from your gutter downspout into the rain barrel. It is important to have a filter (wire or mesh) on the rain barrel opening to keep any large debris from entering the barrel. Every 12-18 months, you will also need to clean out the rain barrel, as dirt and silt will build up inside. You can easily do this with a high-pressure hose or sprayer.

Do you have a rain harvesting system in operation at your home? Post up links to pictures or offer your advice on what systems work best!

—

Rain Harvesting Systems Around the World

The Gansu province in China and the semi-arid north east region of Brazil, have developed and rely upon some of the largest rooftop rainwater projects in the world.

In Bermuda and the U.S. Virgin Islands, all new construction is required by law to include rainwater harvesting adequate for the residents of that building.

In Colorado, water rights laws severely restrict rainwater harvesting . According to Colorado law, a property owner who captures rainwater is effectively stealing it from those who have rights to take water from the watershed. Pretty crazy, right?

El Jadida Cistern - Morocco

Additional Resources:

How much rainwater can you rescue from your roof ?

Tutorials and plans for many types of different home-made rain barrels.

Composting is the controlled natural decomposition of organic material, such as leaves, grass clippings, prunnings, and fruit and vegetable scraps. Microorganisms break down these materials into compost, or humus, a nutrient rich soil product.

Where?!

Composting can be setup almost anywhere…in your backyard, at work or school, even if you live in an apartment! All you need to get started is a bit of space, a bin or container, and a basic understanding of the composting process.

Space: Your compost pile will need an area about 3 square feet at minimum. It should ideally be located in a shady spot or be covered, so that the sun doesn’t dry out your compost too quickly.

Compost Bins: Compost bins can either be homemade or purchased from a bin manufacturer. A basic size is 3 feet wide x 3 feet deep x 3 feet tall. Homemade bins can be easily constructed out of wood, wire mesh, or scrap pallets. Need instructions?

Here are some examples of homemade bins:

Wiremesh Compost Bin

Photo: mjmonty

Wire Screen Compost Bin

Photo: amber in norfolk

Compost bin with pallets

Photo: London Permaculture

Why?!

Composting has many benefits for the homeowner and the environment:

- Saves You Money by reducing the need to purchase expensive commerical fertilizers and soil amendments.

- Benefits Your Yard and Garden by improving soil heath and fertility and preventing erosion.

- Conserves Water by helping the soil hold more water and reducing the need for frequent watering.

- Helps the Environment by recycling valuable organic materials and reducing the amount of trash you send to a landfill.

How?!

Four basic ingredients are required for composting: Greens, Browns, Water and Air
Mixing the proper amounts of these ingredients together will provide the composting organisms (microbes and insects) with enough nitrogen, carbon, moisture and oxygen to break down the material efficiently. Meat, fish, bones, oils, grease or lard, dog or cat droppings, fresh weeds with mature seeds, charcoal, treated wood products, or dairy products will not work in any compost pile!

Greens include: grass clippings, green leaves, fresh prunings, and fruit and vegetable scraps.

Browns include dry, woody materials such as dead leaves, wood chips, twigs, sawdust and paper. It is best to shred or chop these materials up before adding them to the pile, as this helps to aerate and “bulk-up” the compost pile.

Water is important to any compost pile. The compost should be kept moist at all times. Too little moisture will inhibit the composting process, and too much water can cause your pile to smell.

Air is essential to preventing any bad-smelling odors. Turning your compost once or twice a week will inhibit the growth of odor-causing an-aerobic bacteria, and also result in faster composting.

The correct combination of these ingredients will encourage and sustain the micro and macro organisms that are required for composting to work.

Microorganisms (basteria and fungi) are the main workers of the compost pile. Although too small to see, they are on everything you throw into the pile.
Macroorganisms (insects, worms, and grubs) usually enter the compost pile from the surrounding landscape in the later stages of decomposition.

So that’s the basics of composting. In an upcoming post, I’ll go over the different types of composting: active, passive and composting with worms!

Get out there and start decomposing! Composting, that is.
If you are already composting, let us know your tips on what methods work best!

Good Compost

Photo: normanack

Photo: Mourner

However, the real star of this post is not CFLs, but LEDs or Light Emitting Diodes. The LED was first invented in Russia in the 1920s, and introduced in America as a practical electronic component in 1962. All early devices emitted low-intensity red light, but modern LEDs are available in a large variety of colors and light wavelengths. LEDs present many advantages over traditional light sources including lower energy consumption, longer lifetime, multiple and switchable colors, improved robustness, smaller size and faster switching. Previously, the production cost of LED was too high in order for it to be competitive against incandescent and CFLs. However, this is already starting to change as companies like Philips are using new technology to make cheaper and cheaper bulbs.

The new LED lights from Philips come in a variety of colors and are especially durable for outdoor use due to their waterproof, non-breakable bulb. Some of the products they offer can also change light level and color on-demand, to suit your mood or the time of day. LED lighting is definitely the future of energy-efficient home lighting!

New LED lights from Philips

For more information on the lighting options available from Philips, visit: philips.com
For a great overview on ‘Eco Home Lighting’, check out this post.

Does anyone know of a good source to buy LED lights online?

Let us start the conversation where most of us start and end our days, the bathroom.  We have broken down the bathroom into three main topic areas; Showers & Baths, Toilets & Faucets, and Lighting.  You may not be able to incorporate everything depending on budget, but some don’t cost a dime.  Here are some talking points for your next family meeting. 

Cost to check off your list:

$ = FREE

$$ = Less than $100

$$$ = More than $100

SHOWERS & BATHS

• Shorter Showers $ – Running hot water uses energy to get the water to you, to run the hot water heater, and to then treat the water after use.  Try to take shorter showers to reduce your water and energy usage. 
• Flow Restrictive Shower Heads $$ – They use substantially less water, and therefore energy.  They really have come a long way with the feel of these, plus they are easy enough to install on the weekend. 
• Shower Over Baths $ – Depending on the cubic space of your bathtub you will use more gallons to fill up the tub then you would to take a shower.  This is especially true if the shower is equipped with a flow restrictive shower head. 

TOILET & FAUCETS

• Turn Off Water While Brushing Your Teeth $ – This one should be pretty self explanatory.  When you don’t need water on, turn it off.  This is a task that does not require hot water so leave the warm water off, cold uses less energy.
• Look For Leaks $$ – Water loss from leaks add up over time.  Fix the seals as soon as possible.  There are many resources to fix the leak yourself if you are comfortable with DIY projects.  Take a look at Expert Village’s video, or the City of San Jose’s site  for a printable repair guide.  I did a little experiment with a measuring cup and a faucet with a steady drip.  In the 10 minutes of testing it leaked 1 cup.  That equates to 9 gallons a day of wasted water.  That is just one day!  I will be reusing the water from this experiment; it will not be wasted in vain.  
• More Efficient Bathroom Fixtures $$-$$$ – There are water saving bathroom faucets and toilets including dual flush , if that fixture just needs to be replaced.  

LIGHTING

• Turn Lights Off $ – Remember to switch off the lights when you leave the room.  Don’t forget the fan too.  If you have a window by the shower try to go lights out for a natural lighting experience, it doesn’t cost a thing.  Your family can’t remember to turn off the lights?  Then start a family change jar.  Every time you forget to turn out the lights you owe the family jar $0.25.  Believe me; you will all get the hang of it quickly.  If not, you will all have a nice family night out.
• Switch Out Lamps For CFLs $$ – It is time to jump on the band wagon with these, folks.  When incandescent lamps burn out give CFLs a try.  They pay for themselves quickly with lengthy lifespans and efficient energy usage.  They do contain small amounts of mercury and require special recycling.  Here is a great post from Lighter Footstep to see how to dispose of the retired CFLs properly.

If you have any ideas of your own we would be thrilled to see them!  Please join the discussion by dropping us a line, or leaving a comment below.